Local Hair Guru Lisa Daniels Shares Her Extremely Sound Theories On Frizz Control
This woman....man I love her. She's the MVP of my St. Pete beauty "Squad Replacement" for sure.
When I moved here from NYC, I was terrified I wouldn't be able to find another colorist who matched the talent + sheer awesomeness of Shinpei, my go-to for at least a decade. I can't really describe the quiet loveliness of Shinpei, but month after month, I felt a sense of total calm when I slipped into his chair. It was like a tiny oasis from the Gotham chaos that lay just outside the salon doors, and the fact that my roots would magically disappear was just icing on the anti-chaos cake.
There's zero chaos in St. Pete, but that doesn't mean I don't land in Lisa Daniels' chair at Platinum Salon a big ol' stress-ball. And I'll be damned if I don't leave there, an hour + change later, a happier, lighter person. She. Is. Hilarious.
Besides her expertise (and sense of humor!), here's what else I love about Lisa:
- She's a fantastic listener. If you have an issue with your locks - any issue with your locks - she will fix it. Although I don't speak fluent Hair Color, she can translate.
- She's super-accommodating. I'm not suggesting you should move your appointment 10 times like (cough cough...) a Certain Someone I know. But if you need to, Lisa is always extremely cool about it and doesn't make you feel like a massive diva.
- She's a fountain of general intel. There isn't a single question about St. Pete - or the state of Florida, for that matter - that Lisa doesn't have the answer to. She reads a lot, and is very dialed-into local activities and current affairs. She's on it, babe.
And on that note, let's get to the crucial FBP topics at hand: Frizz Control + Color-Maintenance.
FBP: Insane humidity is about to arrive in Florida in a month or so. If someone has naturally frizzy hair (me! me!), are there any steps they can take to prevent turning into a big ol' puffball the minute they step outside?
DANIELS: Think moisture, moisture, and more moisture! Moisturizing products are necessary for frizz control.
FBP: I always forget that, so thank you for reminding me! I'll put 'Deep Condition' on today's To Do list. Any particular anti-frizz shampoos, conditioners or leave-ins you recommend?
DANIELS: Here are a few I really like...
Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame leave-in (It locks in moisture, provides humidity protection and protects from heat styling up to 446 degrees.)
FBP: What do you see frizzy-haired women doing that makes their frizz worse? Brushing their hair, right? What else?
DANIELS: Yes! Brushing hair when it's dry definitely creates more fuzz. I would also recommend avoiding volumizing products - if your hair is naturally frizzy, you certainly don't need to volumize. Also, don't overdo heat styling. It dries hair out, big-time. And make sure to use a heat protectant before styling - every single time. Do not skip the heat protectant!
FBP: Is there a 'tipping point' when you're blowdrying your hair at home when it kind of kicks over from frizzy to smooth? I find that if I don't really take my time, I end up with frizz. When I stick with it until it's BONE dry, it's much smoother. Bonus: My blowout lasts a lot longer.
DANIELS: There is indeed a 'tipping point' with blowdrying that brings hair from frizzy to smooth, so don't stop the second it's dry. Also, sectioning and adding tension on the hair while drying is key to smoothing down the cuticle layer, and getting rid of frizz. If you do all that, your hair is smooth and shiny, with a 'finished' look. Like you've just come out of the salon! ;-)
FBP: In terms of blowdrying to get rid of frizz, do you believe in the theory of "the hotter the better"? I know it's damaging, but sometimes I just really want smooth hair!
DANIELS: I do believe that, but with one major caveat: hair has to be healthy first.
A hot dryer is definitely necessary for smoothing hair, but using a thermal protective product keeps it protected during high heat styling.
FBP: Would it be less damaging to let hair dry naturally and then whack it with a straightening iron?
DANIELS: Yes, it's best to let hair dry naturally. That cuts down on heat styling and lessens the damage. Then just use a flat iron to smooth out any major frizz.
FBP: Are there any good color protectant products? Any you recommend to clients who are out in the sun a lot?
DANIELS: First and foremost, I recommend sulfate-free, color-protecting shampoos and conditioners. These really help protect color-treated hair best.
And here are three great UV protection products I recommend to clients:
Redken UV Rescue Recovery Treat - for after-sun deep conditioning. (NOTE FROM DANA: Technically, this has been discontinued. But you can nab bootleg bottles on Amazon in the link I just provided for you. You're welcome, my dear FBP-ers!)
Redken UV Rescue Daily Sun Milk leave in - shields hair with SPF 12. Less sun = better color-maintenance.
FBP: Do you recommend getting fewer highlights in the warmer months when the sun is blazing? They seem a little unnecessary.
DANIELS: Actually I don't recommend fewer highlights during the warmer months at all. I find that's when my clients seem to want the most highlights and brightness! :-)
But I do recommend more frequent - and more intense - moisturizing.
Daily conditioning isn't enough for these times, and more intense, penetrating moisturizing 'treatments' are in order.
These conditioning treatments are to be left on hair longer than a 'quick rinse.' Typically, they're left on for 15-20 minutes or so, and go deeper into the hair for more long-term hydration. Hydration is especially important with lightened hair.
FBP: Do any of your clients try to DIY their own highlights by using lemon in the sun? I also spotted two other DIY lighteners online: Apple Cider Vinegar and crushed-up vitamin C mixed with water in a spray bottle. What do you make of all these? Yay or nay?
DANIELS: Although I have heard of it, I haven't had any of my clients try 'DIY' highlights with lemon. But this much I know for sure: it's not a pretty result if hair is not already naturally light.
If hair has any depth to the natural pigment, lemon is usually not effective in lightening, and leaves hair brassy. It's acidic and drying, too.
As for the crushed-up vitamin C mixed with water - that's a new one! I have never heard of that being used to lighten hair.
But I have heard of apple cider vinegar being used to 'remove, slightly lighten or lift out' unwanted artificial pigment/color. Like lemon, apple cider vinegar is acidic, too, and will slightly lift artificial color. Still, I think that's best left in the hands of a trained professional.
FBP: Well you're my favorite St. Pete 'trained professional'! I'll see you next week. And I pinkie-swear promise not to change my appointment on you!