Got Sun Spots? Read This Veddy Serious Q + A With One Of Dermalogica's Top Trainers
Yes, I'm aware that the lovely young beauty in the pic above has freckles, not sun-induced brown spots. So please don't send me any emails urging me to get my eyes checked. My eyes are just fine, thank you. Kinda. Actually, they're not great...
Anyhoo, onto the topic at hand: Brightening the skin.
A few months back, I reached out to Dermalogica, one of the best spa skincare brands in the whole wide world. (I do not overstate this; it is revered.)
I wanted to know if they could put me in touch with someone at the company who's really in the trenches, teaching all the aestheticians how to execute facials and other treatments.
They patched me through to Trish Faley, International Dermal Institute Training Manager for the East, and I quickly fired-off a round of Qs.
Be forewarned: this post gets a little tech-y. I'm an unabashed Skin Nerd, so I can get pretty deep. But Trish, Trish gets real deep.
If you're already a Dermalogica fan, you'll recognize a lot of the products she mentions. If not, I've linked, linked and linked some more so you can look them up at your leisure.
On y va, as the French say...
FBP: When a client works with a Dermalogica Skin Therapist with the express purpose of lightening brown spots and evening-out her skin tone, what's the typical service / treatment protocol?
Trish: Treatment protocol for hyperpigmentation would include a thorough consultation to determine the cause of the problem (sun exposure, hormonal influences such as pregnancy, medications, etc.) and skin treatment including a brightening cleanser like Skin Resurfacing Cleanser from our AGE Smart Segment and thorough exfoliation with an advanced Multi Vitamin Power Exfoliant, which includes retinol and salicylic acid as well as vitamins A, C, E and F. This would ideally be followed with a Multi Vitamin Power Recovery Masque which could be infused and penetrated with galvanic iontophoresis or a clear gelloid masque, like Colloidal Masque Base, with LED.
FBP: What products are recommended for home use?
Trish: Home care is imperative because it ensures 24/7 product use to help fade hyperpigmentation and create luminosity and hydration in the skin. This is achieved with a product trio: Pure Bright, Pure Night and Pure Light.
- C-12 Pure Bright Serum includes two specialized peptides - oligopeptide-34 and oligopeptide-51 and phytic acid to help fade and brighten.
- Pure Night is a nourishing moisturizer with raspberry and cranberry oils.
- Pure Light SPF50 treats and protects with oleosome technology.
Of course no regimen is complete without some form of exfoliation for home use, and Dermalogica has a unique new Daily Superfoliant, which helps to combat pollution left on the skin. New research has proven that pollution leads to "inflammaging," which can in turn generate hyperpigmentation. Our new exfoliant utilizes Binchotan activated charcoal to detox the skin and enzymes to brighten and exfoliate.
FBP: With at-home products, what are the key anti-hyperpigmention ingredients to look for?
Trish: Safe yet effective ingredients for home use need to lighten and brighten but not sensitize the skin further, as this can lead to more hyperpigmentation in the long run. Look for licorice extract, vitamin C, oligopeptides and red and brown algae.
FBP: Florida doesn't get much of a winter, but it does cool off a bit. Is it smart to try to tackle the brown spots issue in the few months of the year when the sun isn't totally blazing?
Trish: Yes. If a client sees a result - and it can take 45 days for existing melanocyte cells to desquamate - they'll be more inclined to stick to a regimen and use SPF often.
FBP: Are there any DIY laser devices for at-home use that you feel can deliver at least minimal results in lightening brown spots? I own a Tria, but I'm pretty lame about using it - mostly because it seems like it would take forever to see any changes.
Trish: While some consumers do see improvement in line, wrinkles, tone and hyperpigmentation from using laser devices, it really is the product and the strength and quality of ingredients that are going to have long-term - and personally I think easier - results. In my experience, the bathroom cupboard often sees more of these devices than the clients' skin!